parts+list

====ok guys this is the page i made. First is some thoughts on converting a vehicle. second is a small pickup someone converted in depth. and third are some rough pricing i did on converting a small pickup. any comments post them in the discussion tab related to this page. dont edit this page because you might accidently screw it up.-Dan====

1Choose A Donor Car
The Chevy S10 pickup is a common vehicle used for electric car conversions. This one was converted by Ampmobile Conversions. Ampmobile's Mike Moore said, "If you are trying to maximize driving range, go with a small pickup that has room for all the batteries." To state the obvious, you’ll need a donor car to use as the basis for your conversion. The gasoline engine will be entirely removed and replaced with a motor, controller, and lots of batteries. Nearly any four-cylinder manual transmission vehicle can work, but you’ll probably want to use a model that others have converted many times before. In this way, your electric wheels won’t need to re-invented. Moore recommends using an affordable compact car, like a Chevy Aveo, Geo Metro, or Honda Civic, if economics and efficiency are your top concern. If you are trying to maximize driving range, go with a small pickup that has room for all the batteries. A Chevy S10 or Ford Ranger are common choices. If you have your heart set on your exotic electric dream car, nearly any car can work. But each level of complexity and uniqueness requires more time and consideration—and therefore probably adds cost. It’s not impossible to do a conversion from an automatic transmission,” said Hazen. “It just wastes energy and is not practical.” The extensive database of electric cars—mostly conversions—at EValbum.com can serve as an informal shopping guide. The site is searchable by make, model, components, and location. Each entry provides the basics of how the vehicle was converted.

2Calculate Costs
The cost of doing an electric car conversion (DC system) on your own, according to our three experts, is between $8,000 and $11,000—not including the donor car. If you hire a company to do the conversion, expect to spend in the range of $12,000 and $18,000, including all the necessary parts and labor. There are reports of electric car conversion as high as $25,000, but anything above $20,000 is price gouging. It’s hard to get more specific about costs, because there’s a broad range of issues to consider: the specific vehicle being converted, the quantity and technology of the batteries, the drive system, and the quality of the work and rates charged by the conversion company. Moore said there’s virtually no maintenance, especially if you make sure that cables are tight and secure. Lough said the electricity costs are only about $100 to $200 per year, although Hazen warns that the common figure of $0.02 per mile is overused and exaggerated, and that after all utility costs and efficiencies are considered, the price per mile is closer to $0.05 to $0.07. The only “gotcha” is the cost of replacing the car’s battery pack. Today’s electric car conversions, almost without exception, use lead acid batteries, which will last approximately two to five years. The cost to replace the pack, depending on the number of batteries, will range between $2,000 and $5,000.

3Make Technology Decisions: Batteries and Electric System
Despite all the buzz about lithium ion batteries, and the proven success of nickel metal hydride in today’s hybrid gas-electric cars, you should expect your converted EV to run on lead acid batteries. It’s simply too hard to find reliable and affordable lithium or nickel batteries. Moore has tested lithium ion batteries, loves how they react, but can’t promise that they will last long enough to make them cost-effective at this time. In terms of various lead acid batteries, the group strongly recommends Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) batteries over flooded cell, which require monitoring and maintenance. With lead acid batteries, expect overnight charging times of approximately six to eight hours. Given the limited energy and power of lead acid batteries, and rudimentary or non-existent battery management systems, a DC system is recommended. An AC system, which requires an inverter-controller (and provides the capacity for regenerative braking), will add as much as $5,000 more to the conversion—and is therefore considered too costly for the benefits. Although Moore thinks it’s more strictly a matter of cost. He believes going from DC to AC is like going from six-cylinder to an eight-cylinder gas car. “If you have the money,” he said, “I believe the AC system is the best bet because of its advantages.” Faster performance and the ability for regenerative braking are the chief advantages of an AC system.

4Consider Major Technical Hurdle: Battery Weight
An example of the information you can find on EVAlbum.com: Mike Casey of Mountain View, Cal. converted his 1991 Geo Metro into Bluie,” an electric car. He writes, “This car is very fun to drive and very reliable. People are amazed when I give them a test drive.” Casey drives in third gear from about 0 to 60 mph, and says that Bluie will burn rubber in first gear and reverse. Casey installed a new bank of batteries after his old set of “Marine SMR 31s” died after only 1,000 miles. The seven new batteries (right) are bolted down with a metal rod, and then tucked away under a cover and the back seat. “There are no technical challenges whatsoever on the motors, controllers and chargers,” said Lough. “It’s all been perfected 20 years ago.” Perhaps the biggest technical challenge is finding a place for a thousand or more pounds of batteries. “The hardest part is figuring out where to move the weight around the car. We remove a lot of weight by taking the engine out,” said Moore. “You have to put some in the front and some in the back to get it as close to original as possible, so it will drive right.” He warns that putting too much weight in the rear, and the front “is going to go all over the place.” Put too much in the back and it’ll be hard to steer.

5Confront Limited Range & Speed
The limited range of converted electric cars remains a major issue. Steve Lough is very upfront with perspective EV owners who will accept nothing less than 50 or 60 miles of range. “I tell them, ‘I don’t think this is going to work for you.’” While the driving range between charges can be as high as 50 miles, Hazen make it clear that you don’t want to run your batteries all the way down to zero state of charge. That will significantly decrease the life of your batteries, and besides, it’s scary to not know if you are going to make it back home. In driving in Central Florida, Hazen says, “Lead acid batteries will take you down the freeway maybe one exit, and then you have to find a place to get off and charge up.” So, while converted EVs are commonly capable of 65 to 70 mph, driving at that speed will quickly drain your batteries. “It takes a lot of energy to run at that speed,” Hazen said. “Lead acid is really not for freeway use. But for around town, on streets at 40 mph, you can go a long way. That’s where the longer range numbers come in.”

6Shop for Conversion Companies
If you are sold on the economic, environmental, and energy benefits of an electric car conversion, but don’t want to get your hands dirty, there are dozens of companies across the country that will do the work for you. But how do you find a good one? Steve Lough recommends going through your friendly local electric auto association. In one fell swoop, you’ll get advice and referrals from dozens of local folks who have already been through the process. Beyond that, common sense prevails. Check the background of the company owners, and get a long list of previous customers. Then call them, and try to arrange a time to see—and ride in—their work. Hazen suggests that you determine “if the work is neat, clean, and well thought-out.” Moore adds, “Don’t be afraid to check references and do research. With the Internet, it’s easy to see if a company has complaints.”

7Pass Up on Conversion Kits
The most common advertisement on the web is for “electric car conversion kits.” But our three experts agree that the kits will only get you so far. The panel agrees that no kit is complete and comprehensive. Even if you buy a kit designed for a specific vehicle, there are likely to be a number of small components and pieces that you’ll need to get on your own. Moore said, “I like to call it a component package—not a step by step set of instructions with everything you need. Most do not include batteries or chargers.” He also warns to be suspicious of the driving range and max speed that many kit providers promise. Hazen, a do-it-yourselfer, thinks it’s a lot cheaper to buy the components yourself. Basically, you are paying somebody a big premium to assemble the basic components into one package. Of course, if you are using a conversion company, a kit won’t help you.

=EXAMPLE OF A CONVERSION=


 * **Engine Removed**

The engine has been removed and the compartment has been cleaned using mineral spirits and degreaser. After cleaning, the frame was primed with a zinc primer and painted black.

Note the motor mount that is bolted in place above the cross member awaiting the motor. || ||
 * **Motor Mount**

This close-up of the motor mount shows that it is suspended between two rubber engine mounts. Later, these engine mounts ripped almost immediately. I replaced the rubber with metal tangs welded to the rubber mount bases. There is no reason to mount the electric motor on rubber – there is no vibration. Mount your electric motor solidly. || ||
 * **Mount Close Up**

This shows the metal tangs/flanges welded to the original rubber mount base. I chiseled the rubber off and burned it with a torch to clean the metal base of all remaining rubber. || ||
 * [[image:http://evhelp.com/Images_files/InstallingMotor.jpg width="300" height="222" align="center"]]

|| **Motor Installation**

It’s time to install the motor. I made a strong wooden frame with the electric winch on top. A hand operated control made it easy to maneuver the motor into place. I inserted a bolt and connecting fixture in the threaded hole on top of the motor to attach the winch cable.

Note that the motor has the motor-to-transmission adapter housing installed and the clutch assembly is in place. ||
 * **Finished Motor Compartment**

There’s a lot to see in the photos to the right.

**Top Large Picture** This is a look under the hood as it is today, January 2010. There are several things to note in this photo: Motor - You can see the motor mount strap and a large bolt on top of the motor. This bolt goes through a short metal tab that is welded to the top motor mount strap. The bolt and tab prevent the motor and transmission from twisting from the enormous motor torque.

Mounted to the front of the motor, you will see my old oil pan. It now serves as a debris shield to deflect rain that comes in the front of the vehicle and prevents it from getting into the motor brushes without blocking airflow.

Pot Plate - Top right is the variable resistor and micro switch pot plate assembly, which is mechanically connected to the ‘gas’ pedal via a flexible cable. The variable resistor tells the controller how much current to feed to the motor. Control Box - The system control box is to the right in the photo. See the __ [|Wiring Diagrams] __ page for details. EVH-PWX16 PowerWheel Controller - The commercial version of my controller is shown dead center in the photo. DC-to-DC Converter - The 600 W DC-to-DC converter is shown in the upper left in the photo tucked in between the battery and the computer.

Heavy-duty Contactor - The gray box, mounted to the firewall and behind the control box on the right, contains the heavy-duty contactor that passes the high current to the controller when it is energized. The control box circuitry and the micro switch control the heavy-duty contactor. For added safety, the contactor opens when your foot is off the accelerator pedal and closes just as you put pressure on the pedal. || ||  || Original Controller: Curtis model 1231C-8601, 96-144VDC, 500 Amps max, 0 to 5 k/ohm input

Speed Control w/micro switch: Curtis PB-6 Motor: Advanced DC 9.1", shaft each end, 203-06-4001A ||
 * [[image:http://evhelp.com/Images_files/2nd_Gen_Power_Wheel_200X.jpg width="170" height="185"]] || This is my 2nd generation 'Power Wheel' controller that replaced the Curtis. ||
 * [[image:http://evhelp.com/Images_files/EVH-PWX16_Package_Photo.jpg width="200" height="130"]] || This is my commercial version 'Power Wheel' controller package - the EVH-PWX16. ||


 * ** Speed Control Installation **
 * ** Speed Control Installation **

The photos to the right are those of the original setup under the hood back in early 2007. I started with the Curtis 1231C-8601 controller and the PB-6 Pot Box, as many enthusiasts do. I have kept these photos because of the popularity of the Curtis and the PB-6 Pot Box, which is shown in the upper left of the upper photo.

Originally, I had a homemade HV battery charger under the hood, as shown to the right in the photo. Today, I have a distributed charging system mounted to the wall in the garage next to the truck.

Back then, the Control Box was much larger than it is today.

The lower left photo shows how the speed control (PB-6) is installed. I added a piece of aluminum angle on the right of it with a larger flat piece screwed on to capture the accelerator cable sleeve. A piece of scrap iron flat stock was used to mount the control to the remaining plastic plenum for the air-conditioning evaporator. Note the added return assist spring that helps pull the control arm back and elevates the gas pedal. A crimp-on closed wire terminal was used to connect the accelerator cable to the control arm with a lose bolt and acorn nut. You can see the three micro switch terminals with attached wires. See the [|Wiring Diagrams] page for details. ||

||
 * [[image:http://evhelp.com/Images_files/BatteryRack.jpg width="405" height="301" align="center"]]

Original battery bank - 16 batteries

New battery bank - 24 batteries - October 31, 2008

24 batteries installed to allow 153 V, 500 A testing and calibrating of EVH-PWX16 controllers (when I was selling them) || **Batteries Installed**

I purchased a small welding machine, a 14” cutoff saw and an angle grinder to do the metal work. The metal stock is 1½” by 1/8” think steel angle and some flat stock. The rack is securely bolted to the frame on each side and holds two rows of eight batteries. Locating the batteries here, behind the cab, provided near perfect balance on all four wheels.

The gray box hanging on the right side of the battery rack is a makeshift fuse box. It contains a 600 A fuse, but 400 A would have been fine. I drilled some holes for venting in the plastic electrical box.

Note the flat-stock strapping across the top of the rack between the batteries. These straps are bolted on with self-locking acorn nuts. Holding the batteries securely in place is very important to prevent additional damage and injury in an accident.

If you look closely, you'll notice the terminal lugs connected to the terminals with a wing nut. I have replaced the terminal lugs with terminal clamps for much better contact and to avoid terminal melt-down. I melted 3 terminals before changing to post clamps. **New Battery Bank** The entire battery bank was replaced on October 31, 2008, increasing the number of batteries to 24. Normally, only 20 batteries are needed for a light truck conversion. WHY DID YOU PUT ALL OF YOUR BATTERIES BEHIND THE CAB AND NONE UNDER THE HOOD? I did this because I wanted a lot of elbow room under the hood to install and remove EVH-PWX16 controllers to test and calibrate them before sending them out to customers. I didn't want to be reaching and stretching around batteries. WHY DID YOU NOT PUT THE BATTERIES DOWN AROUND THE FRAME TO SAVE BED SPACE? My choice. I wanted to easily see and reach all batteries for quick and easy servicing. They stay clean there too. I wanted to get rid of the 320 lb. bed and make a lighter one with a special enclosure for the batteries. Also, when these heavy batteries are placed behind the rear axle, most of the total battery weight is on the rear axle and there is a lot of outward force when rounding corners - not good on slippery roads. ISN'T YOUR CENTER OF GRAVITY TOO HIGH AND TOO FAR BACK? Too high? No. There is no handling problem at all. I usually turn corners at less than 30 mph (humor). Weight distributed too much to the rear? Yes, a little, however, it has not affected handling at all. I may move 4 batteries under the hood in the future or simply remove 4 batteries and run with a total of 20. ||
 * [[image:http://evhelp.com/Images_files/RearFrame.jpg width="448" height="332" align="center"]] || **Rear-end Work**

I removed the original bed, sandblasted the frame, primed it and painted it. As you can see, it looks fresh from the factory. Note the new-bed rails that I added to provide a firm and flat foundation for the new bed.

Also, notice the extensions (shackles) I added to the leaf springs and the air shocks to gain height. This combination gives me the front-to-rear height balance that I wanted. || The original bed weighed 320 pounds. Using aluminum framing and ABS plastic sheathing, I was able to reduce that weight and provide a nice compartment for the batteries. Aluminum sheathing can be used as well. 90-degree angle plates and angle brackets give the new bed excellent rigidity. Self-drilling screws make the frame work easy.
 * [[image:http://evhelp.com/Images_files/BedFraming.jpg width="409" height="305" align="center"]] || **Bed Framing**

The ABS sheathing was attached using countersunk stainless-steel #8 sheet-metal screws. The ABS sheathing can be painted with standard auto paint if you desire. Bed detail and additional photos are available for $19.95. Mail your check made out to EVhelp, LLC - 5215 NE 14th Court - Ocala, FL 34479 ||
 * **Finished**

Here she is! The taillights and side running lights are very bright LED assemblies purchased from the local auto parts store. I added fog lights to the rear, just under the bumper on each side, for backup lights. For additional safety, I placed a 12-V beeper under the rear bumper that activates when I set the transmission into reverse – a courtesy to parking lot pedestrians.

The total conversion time was about 4 months, which included most evenings, most weekends and about 7 vacation days. My total cost including the truck was about $10,000, which included tinkering, research and development.

The truck is very maneuverable and fun to drive. It still has its power ABS brakes and cabin air bags. The DMV had no problems with it because it is basically the same vehicle with a different source of power.

Insuring this vehicle was no problem either. I kept the same insurance company and they didn't care when I told them about the conversion. They wouldn't give me a discount either. :-)

||

The gate hinges are placed so the gate is flat and even with the bed of the truck when the gate is open (down). ||